Photographing the Ghost

by: the Haunted NC/Seven team

Photography is one of the most important, and certainly the most common tools for a paranormal researcher. It provides visual documentation of occurrences. We use 35 mm cameras - either “point and shoot” or manuals are acceptable. Other cameras (i.e.:110, digitals, etc.) have been used with good results, but for our work the 35 mm is standard. The digital is becoming more and more popular for many reasons... primarily being instant results and no money spent on development. They both have pros and cons (the 35 mm produces a negative that can be used for comparison, there is no data drops, etc. - the digital does not allow for manipulation of film developing, is cheaper to use thus allowing many more photos, etc.) and we have found that by using both we end up with the best coverage of an investigation. It is not our intention of getting into whether one is better then other, only to address simple steps that should be followed at all times. A photo is only as good as it's photographer is honest so....

When shooting photos the following conditions should be met:

1. All straps should be removed or around neck (wrist straps should just be removed). I is all to easy for a strap to slip into the photo by accident and cause a false photo. This seems to be especially common with wrist straps. Many times the photographer may not even be aware of it, and when the photos come out the proximity of the strap to the lens and the flash produce an image that is taken to be a "Vortex". Don't let this common mistake happen to you.
   
   
2. Never shoot in inclement conditions (rain, snow, fog, high winds, dust, etc.). This should be pretty self explanatory. Moisture makes orbs... and these are not ghosts! While rain and other such conditions are the obvious ones, be aware of more subtle conditions that can affect photos. Dew on the ground, ambient moisture (humidity), mist and fog. Wind stirs up dust which can be reflected by the flash or near by lighting and show up as orbs. Walking through a field can stir up unseen mold spores... high pollen counts... alll of these can be accidentally photographed as orbs or other phenomenon. Stay aware and discard anything that you know resulted from these or other similar conditions. Try shining a high power light out... if you can see dust dancing in the beam then they can show up on your film. Orbs are questionable enough... make sure you can positively rule out normal causes. Be aware also of conditions that could cause fogging or condensation in your camera (such as coming into a warm room from a cold outdoors)
   
   
3. No smoking while shooting film OR near it. This is an easy way to end up with the ubiquitous "ecto mist". While mist photos that are not explainable any other way are out there, it is very easy for stray smoke from a cigarette to masquerade as a ghostly phenomenon. By the same token... dont allow incense, candles or anything else that could produce smoke, even in the smallest amount. Also be aware of your breathe in cold weather.
   
   
4. Do not take photos from moving vehicles, while walking down dusty paths. Again, dusty paths produce false orbs. Movement, reflection from the car can cause a variety of effects. Beside, if your driving along how will you be able to log EXACTLY the area and condition when you took the photo??
   
   
5. Make sure all lens are clean of dust, fingerprint, etc. Again you don't need simple mistakes such as finger print smears or dust reflection marring your work and bringing into question your results.
   
   
6. Long hair must be tied back. Fingers should be kept away from lens. A single stray hair can cause a false vortex. If you have long hair, tie it back! Fingers can inadvertently get in front of the lens and you can mistake this for a shadow. Know where your fingers are so your "ghost" doesn't turn out to be a thumb waving around! Avoid dangly things like drawstrings, long earrings, etc. that could potentially interfere.
   
   
7. Avoid shooting into the sun. Nothing useful will come of this. The light and reflections into your lens and shutter can cause a number of effects, none of which are paranormal. Just don't point that way.
   
   
8. Avoid shooting with a flash at shiny or reflective surfaces. Typically a flash range is about 10-12 feet, however we have photos where the flash reflected on an object further away. A flash bouncing of a distant street sign, shiny tombstone or mirror or window to the side of you can yield great looking orbs, blobs, shadows and other goodies. None of which are paranormal. Be very careful to check for ANY thing that could reflect a flash. Also be aware that a stray flashlight beam can reflect oddly and into your camera. Be aware.
   
   
9. Some people consider it helpful to load the film after you arrive (perhaps 20 minute or so into the investigation). The belief is that this will show your intention and possibly attract spirits. Whether this is so or not, the practical consideration for doing this is that it allows you to evaluate the surroundings and choose the right film, or the best camera for that situation.
   
   
10. In general look for film speed of 400 or 800. In dark conditions anything lower than 400 is fairly useless, and 400 may be cutting it a little close. 800 is better. Anything higher is certainly better, however it does tend to produce grainy photos so be aware of that when evaluating your pictures.
    
    
11. Save those negatives! Store them safely and make sure they are cross references with the photos. These are invaluable when evaluating a potentially positive photo.
    
    
12. Don't be shy about removing from consideration an anomalous photo if there is any doubt about the conditions you took it in. Better safe then sorry. We attempt to recreate positive photos to be as sure as possible they were not "oops" shots before giving them the green light. No one's perfect or knows everything, but by removing truly questionable shots it gives you a much firmer foundation to work with.
    
    
13. If you are using a digital camera, shoot at the highest resolution possible. We have seen some interesting "ghosts" that were actually poor image quality.
    
    
14. KNOW YOUR CAMERA. Take lots of photos before you head out looking for a ghost. Deliberately shoot incorrectly and examine those photos carefully so you know what they look like. Be very aware of things like shutter reflection (which can appear as orbs or odd shapes). Know that camera and it's idiosyncrasies. Practice, practice, practice.
    
    
15. If you are using Infrared photography: Infrared is providing some very interesting results in this field, however it does tend to be expensive. It requires practice and experience to properly use Infrared film. Infrared is sensitized to our level of light, as well as to different wavelengths of radiation. Some basic pointers are:
    
    
    1. Use Black and white Infrared film only - color IR film makes for some interesting colors and can make photos useless for paranormal work. Recommended is HIE 135 B/W film. Direct from Kodak it is approximately $12/roll... locally it can be as much as $30/roll. Plus Developing!
       
       
    2. IR film is EXTREMELY sensitive to heat. It MUST be kept cool. If shipped it arrives packed in dry ice, if purchased locally be SURE if it has been properly stored. Try storing it in the refrigerator until 1 hour before use.
       
       
    3. Film must be loaded and unloaded in total darkness. Any light leak can compromise the film.
       
       
    4. The use of filters is a judgment call. Some feel this provides a better shot, others feel it potentially cuts out possible wavelengths a anomaly might be found at. A deep red filter will block visible light.
       
       
    5. Be careful using point-n-shoot cameras. Many have internal sensors that can damage IR film.